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Wednesday, October 5, 2011

How to get around in Florence






Dear Friends,

Today�s article will hopefully be of use for everyone taking Florence as the base for their holiday in Tuscany, or for those that simply want to spend a day or two in Florence while they explore the delights of the region from a countryside location.

The first thing you should take into consideration if you travel to Florence by car is the numerous restricted traffic zones in the historic centre. Driving through one of these zones will lead directly to a fine. So be careful!

As a result, if you plan to come to Florence by car or to hire a vehicle once you have arrived, I would suggest first of all that you look for a car park outside of these restricted traffic zones and leave your car there.

Florence does not have many car parks. However, the local government has produced a website on which all the main car parks in Florence and their locations are listed- definitely worth a look. If your hotel is in the centre of the city it might have its own car park. Only after your hotel has given your car�s number plate to the local police can you drive through the restricted traffic zones

Bicycle or scooter rental are also interesting options to get to know Florence and travel around the cities and other places in the wider area. There are a huge number of companies which offer rentals. I direct you to this website for example, where you can find both motorbikes and bicycles to rent. http://www.alinarirental.com/

Public transport such as the buses are another good alternative. The company that manages them is the ATAF and fortunately has a website in English. You will find information on timetables, routes and fares here.

You can also take taxis to get around Florence. Nevertheless, due to the fact that this sector is restricted, there are relatively few taxis in the city. To find them you almost always need to go to the designated ranks or call one by phone. This is of course a rather expensive way to travel.

The last option is to get around on foot. Considering that the city centre is not very big and especially that every corner of Florence deserves to be seen, this is probably the best choice.

As always we hope that this information might be of some use for your holidays in Florence and Tuscany.


Please leave any questions, suggestions or thoughts in the comments. 



Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Routes around Tuscan towns


Since many of you have been asking for articles on the towns in Tuscany we are going to start a section of the blog focusing on routes to various Tuscan towns that can be made in a single day.


Today we will talk about the following route:
Siena - San Gimignano - Monteriggioni

This route is undoubtedly one of the most appealing of those that can be made in one day.

Starting in Siena and parking in the "Stadio di Siena" or in "Piazza del Mercato" you will find yourselves practically in the centre of town and just a 10 minute walk from the beautiful Piazza del Campo, one of the most impressive historical monuments in the city.
Your visit ought to continue towards the Duomo. The Duomo, or Cathedral, is 10 minutes on foot from the Piazza and certainly a place which any visit to Siena should include. It is simply exquisite, and in my opinion, the most beautiful cathedral in Italy after San Pedro. Its beauty is not only saved for its exteriors but its interiors are even more magnificent. Siena was one of the wealthiest cities in the world during the Middle Ages and the people wanted the cathedral to be the most beautiful in the world. Inside the cathedral you will find stunning mosaics and works of art by the great artists from different eras.
Once you�ve finished in the cathedral I recommend a walk around the centre, strolling its especially narrow and charming streets, and also two very quick visits to the Accademia Chigiana (Siena�s Academy of Music) and to Palazzo Salimbeni (the historical headquarters of the oldest bank in the world, Banco Monte dei Paschi di Siena).

This visit to Siena should last around 3 hours, finishing around 12. 30 if you�ve started your day promptly! Now you can head to Monteriggioni. 


 Monteriggioni is an interesting medieval village situated about 15km from Siena and so can be reached very quickly on this route. I suggest you have lunch here as it has a couple of particularly nice restaurants: The first is Bar dell Orso where you can eat a simple but delicious meal of cold cuts, cheese and good wine on the splendid terrace, The other restaurant I recommend is called il Pozzo and is found in Monteriggioni itself in the central square. Il Pozzo is certainly more expensive but a more elegant dining experience where you can enjoy excellent homemade pasta dishes. This restaurant also has a lovely little terrace so you can eat al fresco but in the shade.  
Monteriggioni has a small church which I certainly consider to be worth a visit as its towers and medieval walls are still in perfect condition.

About 3 in the afternoon you should be thinking about leaving Monteriggioni to head to San Gimignano. This little town is well known for its medieval architecture, one of the gems of the region. It has conserved many of the towers which in the Middle Ages belonged to wealthy merchants and families that wanted to show off their power to the rest of the city.

San Gimignano has an interesting cathedral with marvellous frescoes by Ghirlandaio, but even a walk through the city is an experience. In the highest part of town there is a bar with panoramic views where you might want to relax with a glass of wine.

If you leave around 17.30 you will have plenty of time to go back to your accommodation to get ready for an excellent Tuscan dinner� 


I hope you�ve enjoyed this article and have taken away some useful information.

As always, comments are welcome and particularly appreciated if you have something interesting to add regarding the topic discussed.


Monday, September 19, 2011

How to plan an itinerary through Tuscany


Dear Friends,  


Today�s article will not be devoted to describing a new route, but rather will focus on giving some useful advice to consider when you decide to plan an itinerary through the region.


 
















1- The first piece of advice that I want to give you is regarding the choice of accommodation along the way, or where to make your �base camp�. This decision is fundamental if you plan to really get to know Tuscany, for which it is ideal to position yourself near the A1 motorway or near a motorway such as the Florence-Siena or Siena-Betolle ones. It is important to choose accommodation near the routes of communication because this will allow you to get around quickly without wasting a lot of time on minor or national roads. 


2- On the same matter, I suggest that you stick to your chosen accommodation, since if you opt for a central place near the Florence-Siena-Bettolle motorway or A1 nowhere in Tuscany will be further than 2 hours away which will mean you can make daytrips to various places in the region.  


3- Furthermore, if you can make your accommodation near to a town reachable on foot this will be useful for the evening since restaurants and bars will just be a few minutes away and you won�t have to rely on the car or worry about being caught out for drinking on your return- checks in Italy are very frequent!


4- Another point to consider when planning your itinerary is not to include more than two or three towns. Seeing as Tuscany�s artistic heritage is vast and in each town, no matter how small, there is sure to be plenty to see.


5 � If you are planning a route by public transport, probably the most appropriate base would be Siena or Florence.  Although I don�t especially suggest this way of exploring Tuscany, buses leave daily from both of these cities to the majority of places of interest. As such you can visit a town a day. From Florence, as well as the buses there are many trains to the majority of cities in Tuscany. 


6- Meals. If on your itinerary you don�t want to spend a lot of money on restaurants I suggest that at mealtimes you enjoy a �Pizza al taglio� where you can buy large slices of pizza to go. In almost every town there are places like this and the pizza is usually very cheap. Another alternative that works well in Italy is to go to the first grocer�s shop you find and they will prepare you a good sandwich filled with local products.


7 � Airports. Making a good choice of airport is also important. I don�t advise you to fly to Florence with Meridian since they are never punctual and often cancel flights due to technical problems. Always look for flights to Pisa and Rome as an alternative. Considering that if you stay in the south of Tuscany Rome and Pisa are almost equidistant.


8 �Mobile Phones. If it is important for you to keep in mobile phone contact you should bear in mind that there are still areas in Tuscany with very little network coverage or even without any.  Take care to check when reserving your accommodation that there is network available in your chosen place.


9 � Speed checks and Fines. In the majority of towns as well as on the motorways there is a speed checking system, as well as restricted traffic zones, so be attentive to driving hours if you don�t want to be fined.


10 �Street safety. All cities in Tuscany are extremely peaceful. The only city where you should pay a bit more attention to your bag or wallet is Florence. In any case the greatest risk that you will find is pickpocketing.  


I would be delighted if you can add anything to this certainly not exhausted list by leaving your own advice in the comments section.

I hope this information will prove useful.



The Olive Oil �World� in Tuscany



Dear Friends,

Today I want to speak to you about a special event that a great friend of mine, Andrea, together with the property owner of a small rural hotel near Siena, Borgo San Fedele, are organizing at the end of October.



The event that will last a week will be devoted to various topics from tourism in the towns and cities of Tuscany, to music and gastronomy, wine tasting, and above all the culture and �world� that revolves around Tuscan olive oil, probably the most famous and esteemed at an international level. 




Throughout the week various demonstrations and talks will take place, allowing the lucky ones that can attend the event, to learn all about the process carried out in the making of this �liquid gold�- from the harvest to the crushing of the fruit, explaining the full details of the procedure.

Attendees can stay in a completely restructured Hamlet a few km from Siena and from here can participate in a different activity each day learning all the secrets of the olive oil world. There will of course also be plenty of gastronomic opportunities such as a meal at
Dario Cecchini (one of my favourite restaurants), as well as evenings of live jazz music.

 
If you�re thinking of visiting Tuscany this Autumn and are particularly interested in the olive oil �world� you can send an email to Andrea (capanno2000@libero.it)who will send you the full program of events as well as the prices.

As always I hope that this article might not just be useful for my good friend Andrea but also for some of you that, after reading it, might consider the possibility of gifting or sharing this unique experience with someone special to you.


Tuesday, August 16, 2011

How to get around in Tuscany



Dear friends,



Since so many of you send me emails asking about the best way to get around in Tuscany, I�ve decided to write a post on the subject.



The first thing I want to say is that Tuscany is a region that has a huge number of towns and villages of great historical, cultural and aesthetic interest that, being so small or with such small populations, dispose of very little in the way of public transport.



Because of this, if on your travels you are focusing on visiting the pretty, lesser known spots in the region it is essential to have your own vehicle.



In the case that this might be your first trip to Tuscany and you are staying in one of the larger cities like Siena or Florence it�s important to bear in mind that both are well connected with the towns in the provinces via a bus network.



Likewise, Florence has a notable train station well connected with the other main cities. In such circumstances you can avoid having to rent a car but should ensure to consult public transport timetables.



On another note, it should be emphasized that taxis are fairly scarce and very expensive.



In short, my advice would be to travel in your own car or to rent a car on your arrival in Tuscany, since, without this means of transport you will miss out on seeing so many of the pretty places this beautiful region has to offer.







Monday, August 1, 2011

3 light and simple Tuscan recipes for summer



When summer arrives it can be a chore spending too much time in the kitchen when you want to be outside making the most of the sunshine. These Italian dishes are quick, easy, tasty....and healthy too!


Caprese Salad
The classic Caprese, this delicious salad always looks stylish on a lunch table
3 vine-ripe tomatoes,1/4-inch thick slices
1 pound fresh mozzarella, 1/4-inch thick slices
20 to 30 leaves (about 1 bunch) fresh basil
Extra-virgin olive oil and Balsamic vinegar for drizzling
Salt and pepper
Layer alternating slices of tomatoes and mozzarella, adding a basil leaf between each, on a large, shallow platter. Drizzle the salad with extra-virgin olive oil and season with salt and pepper, to taste.

Grilled Zucchini & Summer Squash
(By Stefano Coppola)
A simple enough recipe, this grilled zucchini is positively bursting with flavour from the marinade and a quick char from the grill. This makes a fabulous side dish, hot, at room temperature, or the following day cold. You�ll have leftover marinade too which you can re-use to grill more vegetables or drizzle over salad.
2 zucchini, cut into 1 inch cubes
3 summer squash, cut into 1 inch cubes
3 garlic cloves, minced Ask a question about this ingredient.
2 sprigs rosemary, chopped Ask a question about this ingredient.
1/2 tablespoon crushed red chile flakes Ask a question about this ingredient.
1 sprig oregano, chopped Ask a question about this ingredient.
1/2 cup red wine vinegar Ask a question about this ingredient.
2 cups extra-virgin olive oil Ask a question about this ingredient.
Make Marinade: combine garlic, herbs, chile flakes, lemon juice and zest, and vinegar in a mixing bowl. Whisk in oil. Ask a question about this step. Place zucchini and squash into a large re-sealable plastic bag, pour marinade over and seal. Allow to marinate at least 30 min, preferably for a few hours.
Preheat grill to high. Ask a question about this step. Remove zucchini and squash from marinade. Cut unpeeled onions in half and place on grill, turning occasionally. Remove and place into a bowl, covered with plastic wrap to steam. Meanwhile grill the zucchini and squash until slightly charred. Ask a question about this step. Ask a question about this step. Peel and slice onions. Toss all vegetables together and season with salt and pepper.


White Bean Dip
Dips always go down well with adults and children alike and this one is tasty and healthy, especially if you serve it with crudit�s.
1 can 450 g Cannellini beans, rinsed and drained (or other white beans, but cannellini are traditionally used)
2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
2 tsp olive oil
2 Tbsp basil, fresh, thinly sliced
1/2 tsp rosemary or sage, fresh, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Good pinch of salt
Ground black pepper
In a large bowl, mash the beans with the back of a fork or a hand-held potato masher. Stir in the vinegar, olive oil, chopped herbs, garlic, and pepper flakes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately with ciabatta or focaccia bread and crudit�s.

Hope you enjoy these summer recipes wherever you are in the world. Don�t forget to leave a comment if you try any of them.

What to do in Tuscany: Events in July-August 2011






Dear Friends,
Today I want to highlight some interesting shows and events taking place this summer in Tuscany, geared to both adults and children, especially for those who are just about to set off on their holidays in the coming weeks.

- The first event I�d like to mention is the classical music concerts taking place in Siena in the beautiful Accademia Chigiana in one of the most beautiful theatres of the Italian Renaissance. For the concert program see the following link: http://www.chigiana.it/

- Another popular event in Tuscany is the prestigious Festival de la M�sica de Radicondoli which begins on the 29th of July and continues until the 7th August. Here you will be able to enjoy pleasant evenings with music. Please visit the following site for more information: http://www.radicondoliarte.org/


- Another interesting festival is the Teatro Povero di Montichiello, where actors and musicians improvise to create a typically Tuscan scene. See the official website: http://www.teatropovero.it/

- I�d also like to recommend another interesting music festival, at San Galgano (see the above photo), an impressive roofless church situated in a spectacular enclave in Tuscany. Over the next weeks in this unique place various musical performances and operas will take place. A couple which particularly stand out are Carmina Burana and Swan Lake. For more information you can see the following webpage: http://www.festivalopera.it

- For something a bit different, from the 24th of July up until the 7th of August, in Siena, the jazz concerts are taking place. The Jazz school of Siena is one of the most important in the whole of Italy. For more information and the concert program visit the official website: http://www.sienajazz.it/


- Other notable musical events include: the Music festival of the Valdorcia (1st-16th August), the festival of the Crete Senesi from the 14th to the 22nd August and the Sarteano Jazz Festival from the 24th to the 26th August.

There are also events not exclusively devoted to music and particularly appropriate for children as well as adults.

- The Pontassieve: Summer in the Park festival overflowing with concerts, cinema, musical theatre, children�s events and dance takes place from 26th July until 13th September (Florence Province). See the following link: http://www.estatealparco.it/default.asp

- Finally, a 10 day festival of music, food, dance, markets, entertainment and shows to celebrate the Patron Saint of Borgo, San Lorenzo, will take place in the Borgo itself (Florence Province) from the 7th to the 15th August. Tel: 055 845 6230 / 84966229.

As always, I hope that this information is useful to those planning their upcoming holidays and that you enjoy any of the events you go to.

Emma.