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Thursday, May 3, 2007

Archeological digs in Fiesole



Not far from Florence the historical digs of Fiesole can be found. There are two excellent musems and the ruins themselves which can be visited. In the winter the hours are from 9,30 in the morning to 5 in the evening and in the summer to 7 in the evening - continuous hours with no lunch break! This is a perfect place to come and see some of the ruins left by past cultures in a relaxing and comfortable setting. You will find parking for the cars - or if you want you can catch an orange ATAF bus from Florence, look for line number 7 to Fiesole.



The so-called �Fiesole stelae� date back as far as the late 6th century B.C. However finds from the Villanovan culture of the early iron age and the age of copper and of bronze have also been unearthed. The Etruscan settlement of Fiesole was probably the center of a zone where settlements were scattered over the hillsides which overlook the Florentine basin.



The entire floor rested on piers of bricks which drew hot air from an adjacent furnace (see photo). The walls also were interfaced with hollow terra cotta tiles on all sides to draw the heat through. Frequently the bath had a plug so the water could be emptied, maybe twice, maybe once, or not at all during the day. The pipes might either be lead or, more typically, tiles buried in the ground. Usually planted a foot or more under a very solid concrete floor, they were built to last.


A bathroom of the wealthy literally was a room with a pool of water filling up the entire floor, in essence a small swimming pool in present-day terms. The walls were lined with marble and complemented the three or four marble steps leading down to the submerged concrete floor.

Friday, April 20, 2007

Town of Seggiano in Valdorcia



Seggiano, located just south of Bagno Vignoe and San Quirico d'Orcia

is a quaint little town set in the the rural setting of Monte Amiata with many little towns with medieval characteristics.
Stone walls, gently sloping hillsides, olive groves and huge forests of beech and chestnut rich with a wild life that can be tasty on the table such as wild boar and deer.




You won't find much written about it in the tour guide books but it makes up a line of pleasant little stops along the way to visit the summit of Monte Amiata where you can picnic or simply enjoy hiking in one of the highest points of southern Tuscany. This imposing mount can be seen from distances as far away as Montepulciano.



This is a lazy little setting, and you will enjoy walking the streets and admiring the views. They are not geared up for tourism at all, so you won't find a lot of quaint little boutiques or fancy enoteca's with the latest in wine and cheese just simple good food in a typical Tuscan environment.



Though picturesque, they could have better planned the parking lot around the Renaissance church of Madonna della Carit�, which literally creates an asphalt garden in the middle of the olive groves.

Thursday, April 5, 2007

Poppi near Arezzo



Poppi rises on a hill dominating the Arno river in the Casentino Valley. The seat of the Count Guidi family who ruled the valley from the early 1000s until 1289 when they finally became part of the Florentine Republic. From the late 1200s to 1448 the Guidi family presided in the Palazzo dei Guidi and controlled the land from Poppi to the mountain pass of the Consuma. Approaching the Campaldino plain, the tall and imposing thirteenth-century castle of the Guidi Counts on the hilltop of Poppi dominates the surrounding countryside. The Castle is characterised by a facade with double-arched windows and the tall tower rising from the centre




Inside the Castel of Poppi is the famous "Biblioteca Rilliana", with a wealth of important volumes, and the Chapel frescoed by Taddeo Gaddi, Giotto``s favourite pupil. On the outskirts of the residential centre of Ponte a Poppi stands the Convent of Certomondo, with a church dedicated to SS. Annunziata e Giovan Battista, which was built for the Guidi Counts in 1260. In the 1440 s, in an unsuccessful attempt to capture full control of their lands the Guidi family fell out of grace and where permanently exiled from their territory.



The late-thirteenth-century Badia di S. Fedele in the old town centre of Poppi houses many precious paintings, while to the north of the town lies the 10th-century Abbey of Strumi.

Sunday, April 1, 2007

Gulf of Baratti


Gulf of Barati

Here you find not only wonderful water that is calm even when the sea is rough but also Etruscan ruins nearby, and a medieval fortress up above.

Not only great for the quite soft beaches, but is nestled under Populonia, a spectacular promontory about 70 km south of Livorno; it`s shielded from the sea and calm. With calm seas, on the other hand, Populonia has dozens of tiny inlets that can only be reached by boat. It`s a sun-worshiper`s paradise, and also a diver`s -- you may even find something Etruscan under the waves, because Baratti is where the Etruscans smelted the iron ore they mined on Elba, and their transport ships did occasionally sink.




The tombs of the necropolis of Populonia are located close to the gulf of Baratti, and the powerful cities of Roselle and Vetulonia once overlooked Lake Prile. The ancient Etruscan cities, and the finds and remains scattered around the region are now being safeguarded bu such schemes as the Prco Archeologico-Naturalistico Baratti-Populonia and, in the province of Grosseto, the Parco della Civilt� Etrusca, comprising five separate archaeological areas.




Many of the seaside resorts, from Castiglioncello to the border with Lazio - including San Vincenzo, Follonica, and Gulf of Baratti - are shaded by large umbrella pines. These pinewoods, often planted to replace the original coastal forests of holm oaks and other trees, are part of a landscape that was formed at least two centuries ago by human intervention.




They are now a familiar feature of the Tuscan coast and constitute a natural environment worthy of special protection, not only because they are the habitat of a wide variety of flora and fauna, including the dense Mediterranean undergrowth, but also because they are notable tourist attraction, offering opportunities for delightful walks and cycle rides, or simply shade for bathers on hot sunny days.




In past centuries the economic and cultural life of Tuscany was concentrated in the towns and villages built for safety on the heights, and still surrounded by walls today, while the magnificent facades of their battlemented civic buildings are decorated with the coasts of arms of the "podest�" who ruled them. The wach-towers, the well-defended gates, the fortresses also served to control mineral deposits, outlets to the sea and important trade routes.

Monday, March 26, 2007

The Tuscan coast

Most people image the only the sandy beaches of Tuscany, however when you are finished lazing around on the sunny sands you can hop a ride only a few km in from Cecina and visit some charming little towns still steeped in tradition and Tuscany atmosphere.



Tucked in far enough away from the Costa degli Etruschi to not hear the lapping waves, these little towns are placed on high hills and command incredible views of the soft hills of the Maremma. The Maremma is known for is ample area of fields of grain ---sometimes even compared to the American wide west (and used in the so called Spaghetti Westerns.)




Some other places that merit a stop on your afternoon touring the countryside, and are all within a few km of Cecina include Suvereto. This small village in the Maremma experienced its golden age during the 13th century. Wars, skirmishes, and above all the high death toll caused by the unhealthy air almost completely wiped out village life in Suvereto during the 17th and 18th centuries.




Hop in you car and go a little further to visit the town of B�lgheri. Not only with you find the Rifugio Faunistico di B�lgheri and be able to see (but not eat) boar, roe-buck, martens, black and white porcupines and the occasional otter as well as a wide selection of bird life. There is also a long road of approx. 5 km lined with cypress tress both on the right and left.


Don't expect to find fish restaurants this far away from the ocean. Tuscany is still pretty divided about their food and the hills definitely stick to a more heartier and meatier menu. You will find the classical pasta's with home made meat sauce, sometimes even specializing in wild boar or leper. Meat on the grill and oven baked potatoes are another classical dish. However in the summer everybody loves a pizza and that is true in the mountains or by the seaside.





You will definitely want to participate in the never ending Italian debate on who produces the best olive oil. And of course this area is no different than all the others and they insist it is the best so test for yourself and order a classical bruschetta with olive oil and fresh tomatoes and then let us know.




The photos on this page are photos we took of the scenery that runs inland along the Tuscan coast, and most partain to the small quaint town of Casale only minutes away from Cecina. but you can reach all of the towns mentioned with a short drive and less than 40km.

Monday, March 19, 2007

Castello di Pierle near Cortona


Found on a winding road just south of Cortona, the ruins of this castle make an interesting side trip along the way to Lago Trasimeno. Many consider what is left of Castello di Pierle to be one of the most beautiful and mighty examples of a feudal castle in Tuscany. As you make one of the last of the curves you will catch glimpses of this dominant structure among the green valley.


To simply imagine the grandeur of such a castle with external walls that are almost 2 meters thick and the castle itself rising to almost 5 floors, this impressive record of history stands as it did almost 500 years ago. Its position and the lack of local interest has left it to sit in history almost as it was built. Inside, one can admire the circumference of the walls from 5 to 8 metres (16 to 26 ft) high, the three imposing towers, only one of which today is still almost integral, and the residential keep-palace.


The castle existed already in X the century and was property of the marquises of the Saint Mount Maria Tiberina. In 1428 there is a contract of sale by the Republic of Florence and payment of 1200 fiorini of gold when it became free of Cortona. However that wasn�t enough to save the Rocca, and it was voluntarily destroyed by the Gran Duca so that outlaws would not take refuge here.

Wednesday, March 7, 2007

Montalcino Tuscany


Montalcino, 37km south of Siena es a classic Tuscan hill town set within a full circuit of walls and watched over by a castle of almost fairytale perfection. A quite, immediately likable place affluent in an unshowy way. It is scarcely changed in apparence since the sixteenth century. It looks wonderful from below, its walls barely sullied by any modern building, and once up in the town the rolling hills, vineyards, orchards, olive groves and ancient oaks look equally lovely in turn, that's Tuscany. Montalcino make an excellent base for much southern Tuscany, lying within easy striking distance of the abbeys of Monte Oliveto and Sant' Antimo.

Accommodation is severely limited and it's wise to book ahead at almost any time of year. There is only handful hotels, though if you have transport you could try same place in the countryside nearby. Sampling Montalcino Tuscany' s wine is easily done. Apart from the "enoteca" in the Rocca and the "Fiaschetteria Italiana" which has a superb cantina at the back there are half a dozen cheaper cafe-bars with god stocks, for example "Bar Mariuccia"with breathtaking views from the terrace.

Montalcino like most of the towns in Tuscany is remarkably blessed with good restaurants and you will be hard pushed to have a bad mealin any of them, If you want a slice of Pizza to take away head for Petto Pizza a tiny place on Piazza Garibaldi.

During the summer in the Fortezza take place, Montalcino Jazz and Wine and the funny Festa Dell Unita a ten day festival, organized by the former communist party in the pine wood above the town. Live music most nights, cheap food and wine and usually a lot of fun.