The Val d'Orcia

Dear Friends,

Today, I would like to talk to you all again about this beautiful valley in the south of Tuscany, called the Val d'Orcia, a place that, in my opinion, everyone should visit on their trip to Tuscany.

This valley, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located between Monte Amiata and the Trinoro Valley, and the rolling hills of Pienza and Montichiello, and offers various sites of interest which one should not miss if they're doing a route through Tuscany.

The most distinguished town in the Val d'Orcia is, without a doubt, its "imaginary capital", Pienza, which overlooks the whole valley with its towering walls. Pienza is located in a place so beautiful that even the Pope fell in love with the area and spent a significant number of Church funds in order to create a project for the �Perfect Renaissance City�. If you would like to learn more about this wonderful place, I would recommend that you check out: Pienza

The second famous town in this valley is, without a doubt, San Quirico d�Orcia. Before talking about this place, it�s important to point out that the road that connects these two towns passes through a landscape of immense and incomparable beauty and which cannot be missed. The scenery that you�ll witness passing through here has been used as a setting for such blockbuster movies as Gladiator, the English Patient, and Twilight, among others.

San Quirico, like Pienza, has a number of sites of cultural, artistic and religious interest that you could visit. For more information, check out: San Quirico d'Orcia

Once you have visited Pienza and San Quirico d�Orcia, the route through this part of Tuscany continues towards Bagno Vignoni, an ancient village famous for its thermal waters. The road between San Quirico and Bagno Vignoni passes through some of the most magnificent scenery that is still beautiful at any time of the year, and I would recommend that you drive slowly and carefully because I�m sure that you will find tourists who have stopped alongside the road in order to immortalize this beautiful landscape with their cameras.

Bagno Vignoni, unlike the other towns, does not have a historic center, but it does have two incredible thermal baths (one of which is only open to the public in the summer) which are worth visiting, in order to enjoy a 35 degree bath surrounded by gorgeous scenery. To learn a bit more about this town, you can read this: Bagno Vignoni

If you wish to see more photos of the towns mentioned in this post, I would recommend that you visit our Facebook page: Tuscany Blog. There you�ll find a lot of photos from these beautiful places. Also, if you become a fan of our page, you can become a part of our group and be able to use our forum to ask questions, advice or comment about your own experiences in Tuscany.

In the next post, we will talk about the �unknown� Val d�Orcia and its less touristy towns which only we Tuscans know about.

Kind regards,

George

Christmas in Florence

Dear Friends,

Spending Christmas in Florence is quite possibly the best way to experience Tuscany and its capital during this magical and special time. All of the towns in Tuscany, especially Florence, have this certain enchanting and captivating glow during Christmas.

The Florentines tend to celebrate this festive period with various open-air markets, which the Italians call "Mercatini di Natale", or "Christmas Markets", where artisans from all over Italy come to sell their products, and in particular, delicacies.

In Florence, these "Mercatini di Natale" can usually be found in Piazza di Santa Croce, and you'll meet artisans from the north of Italy, as well as from Germany and other Northern European countries, selling various artisanal products and food.

For those of you who love shopping, I would recommend visiting the famous Via Tornabuoni, where you will find the most exclusive Italian fashion shops and international labels. Of course, during Christmas, all these shops are all the more elegant than usual because of their luxurious and lavish Christmas decorations.

Another place where you'll find shops worth visiting is Florence's permanent market, located in Piazzale San Lorenzo, near the Duomo. This market is open all year long and is the ideal place to shop for the finest leather, which Florence is famous for.

During Christmas, enjoying a stroll across the beautiful Ponte Vecchio is a must, the oldest and most famous bridge in Florence, where all the Italian Jewish jewelers sell their jewelry and collection pieces.

During Christmas in Florence, I also recommend visiting the many churches and cathedrals of the city, being that Italy is a Catholic country, it's interesting to enjoy the various Christmas preparations at the sites of worship.

Finally, my friends, I hope that you'll find a lot of useful information in this post, and that it'll help you discover Tuscany and Florence during Christmas.


Kind Regards,

George

Osterie di Toscana: Acquacheta

Dear Friends,

Today, I would like to talk to you all about a new restaurant in Tuscany, which you should visit without a doubt, if you ever find yourself in the area of Montepulciano and Cortona.

There are several friends of this blog who have mentioned this restaurant before, but I think that it's worth it to revisit the topic once again, so that those of you visiting the area can experience this lovely restaurant.

Giulio, the owner, has two distinguished virtues: the first of which is his friendliness, which makes this Osteria the liveliest and most cheerful place in the area. The second is the fact that he's been able to maintain the quality of this place for such a long time, always keeping the menu simple and not too expensive based on seasonal products. This year, the Osteria has kicked off the season with a new incentive: "Bring your own wine".

For more information about this unique restaurant, I would recommend that you visit the following link:  Osteria Aquacheta Montepulciano

Now I must bid you all farewell by showing you this charming series of photos and a video of the Osteria.


Kind Regards,

George Toscano

Travel from Pisa Airport

Dear Friends,

Due to various emails I�ve received asking for advice on transport posssibilites from Pisa airport I�m going to try and clarify things with an article on the subject.

Pisa airport is definitely the best place to fly to in Tuscany, one the one hand because Ryan Air and other Low Cost airlines that don�t fly to Florence fly here but on the other hand because is also the best connected airport in Tuscany.

If you plan to travel by train, the airport is excellently connected since trains actually come in and out of the airport itself. For more information on timetables you can visit the website Trenitalia. 

Another option is to travel by bus. If, for example, your final destination is Siena, this is a much better option tan the train since there�s no direct train line from Pisa to Siena. For more information on bus timetables from Pisa to Siena or to any other places you can visit the Pisa Airport website

Finally, if you want to rent a car in Pisa you�ll find all the main Italian and local car rental companies within the airport. 

Hope this helps, and as always, if anyone has any further questions or thoughts then please feel free to leave a comment at the bottom of the page.

Black Truffles in Tuscany

Dear Friends,

Winter has arrived in Tuscany and with it the fruits of this season, among which I want to particularly highlight black truffles since they are one of the products that you simply must try on a trip to Tuscany.

The Truffles are truly delicious, difficult to find and extremely expensive, this being said, owing to the little gastronomic culture that exists around the product it�s important that you have some information to be able to distinguish them.

In fact one must be careful when ordering a dish with truffles because, as is the case with mushrooms, there are many different varieties that make them more or less expensive depending on the quality and quantity available in the market.

 

We�ll start with the �Tuber aestivum Vittad.�This is the most typical type of truffle, in Italian it is known as the �Scrozone nero� or �tartufo d�estate.�  

As the Italian name indicates, it is a truffle which can also be found in the summer. The period between the 15^thof June and the 30^th of November is that during which it is usually found and it is the truffle that most restaurants will offer since it is the most abundant but also the least fragrant. It is easily distinguished from the other two varieties I�m going to talk about due to its brown colour once open.

Much better than the first and stronger in flavour is the �Tuber melanosporum Vittad" known by the Italians as "tartufo nero pregiato," �Precious� black truffle.

 This variety is found from the beginning of November up until the end of March and is one of the best black truffles out there. In fact, this truffle needs cold and dry weather to reach its peak.

 The third and final type of truffle that you can find at this time of year is the
"Tuber macrosporum Vittad," �tartufo nero liscio� or �smooth� black truffle.

 This one has a short season from the beginning of October until the end of December. It also has an excellent aroma and is perfect for giving flavour to pasta or fried eggs.

All this considered I recommend you ask what type of truffles are being served and certainly to try dishes using the second and third varieties which are much tastier.

Hopefully this information will be useful on your next trip to Tuscany!

Accommodation in Tuscany- Chianti

Dear Friends,

You will remember that I gave you two accommodation options in Bettole last week. As promised today I have something further north in Tuscany for you. Moving north we most certainly come across the wine region of Chianti. I have a good friend, Andrea, who was born and lives in this distinctive territory. He is a sommelier and has run wine shops and restaurants offering only authentic and traditional Tuscan cuisine.

Three years ago he was introduced to a very interesting couple, Nicol� and Renata, who had completed the restoration of a thousand year old monastery called Borgo San Fedele. Their vision was to create a special centre to host art and lifestyle workshops and organize tailor-made events for families and groups looking for an extraordinary place that can be totally exclusive for just their group throughout their stay. Andrea loved this philosophy and decided to become the chef of San Fedele. www.borgosanfedele.com

Every year all sorts of different groups enjoy  Nicol� and Renata�s warm welcome with their care for the personal touches which make all the difference along with home baked cakes, Andrea�s fun and creative cooking classes and delicious food.  I know they are planning a special New Year's event to which they have kindly invited me. Certain to be a real gourmet experience and an opportunity to unplug for a few days and reset one�s body, mind and spirit before plunging into the New Year with refreshed energy and vigor!

We�ll soon be continuing further north, but in the mean time.....

...ciao for now!

Routes around Tuscany (North)

Dear Friends,

Today I�m publishing a recommended route for those visiting the North of Tuscany.

 

Day 1- Lucca and Pisa. Obviously in Pisa you can�t miss the Leaning Tower and the Piazza dei Miracoli (�Square of miracles�), monuments considered to be some of the great wonders of the world. Besides the splendid Square of Miacles, Pisa does not have a huge amount to show visitors so you can easily devote a morning to Pisa and the afternoon to Lucca. Lucca is an enchanting city. I suggest a walk around the city�s great walls and a visit to the main square. 

I don�t have any particular restaurants to recommend to you in Pisa but in Lucca I know one very good one called la Bocca di San Antonio in the city centre on Via della Cervia n3.


Day 2. Vinci and Firenze

Vinciis the birthtown of the famous Leonardo da Vinci and this little town does not have a particular interest but it does have a museum where many of the Master�s works and drawings are kept.

Making the most of the nearness to Florence, in the afternoon you can go to the city and start to savour it in all it�s splendor. For dinner in Florence I highly recommend you try the restaurant Finisterrae(open the link for more info) found in Santa Croce square. It is a Mediterranean restaurant, exquisitely decorated with a delightful internal terrace. You can enjoy classic and innovative Mediterranean dishes but also excellent pizzas. 

Day 3- Florence

Florence deserves at the very least a whole day, it is a city with so many things to see but we will follow up with another article covering those sites you really cannot miss.

To eat I suggest you go to Trattoria da Mario, a true paradise for the taste buds with a menu based on Tuscan home cooking and the freshest ingredients.  

Below you will find Google Maps for the routes discussed:

Day 1- Lucca and Pisa

View Larger Map

 

Day 2- Vinci and Florence

View Larger Map

Have a good trip! As always feel free to ask any questions or share your thoughts in the comments.

Tuscany in November

 I�m writing to all of you today, those planning a holiday in Tuscany and those who have never even considered the idea. I would lie to give you some information about the region that will help you to best organize a trip and assure you that this is an excellent time to come. 

The Climate in Tuscany 

Tuscany can be found in the centre north of Italy and is crossed by the mountain range called the �Appenines� with mountains that reach up to 2000m. Due to this, in November, of course varying from year to year, it can be get quite cold. 

Here are some statistics:

Average maximum temperature: 14�C 

Average m�nimum temperature: 3�C 

Average number of days with rain: 9

Average humidity: 78% 

 Tourism in Tuscany in November 

At the tourist level November is considered low season, especially in rural areas. For this reason for those who are serious about seeing the sights I can assure you that November is definitely an excellent period. Hotel prices are lower, restaurants offer better service and you�ll have much more space to move around in museums than in the summer months! 

Tuscan Gastronomy in November

Even if the days are shorter and colder at this time of the year, on the other hand, gastronomy sees its finest days in November. It�s the perfect time for game dishes (only available at this time of year) but is also the only moment to taste three typical and exquisite products: 

1. Wild Mushrooms 

2. White and Black Truffles 

3. Freshly pressed Olive Oil 

The Colours of Tuscany 

Autumn is certainly one of the prettiest seasons to appreciate the colours of Tuscany which turn from the gold and green of the summer to brown, orange and rusty reds. In any case towards the end of November the rich brown of the Tuscan earth is exposed and along with the mist that cloaks the hills in the cold morning air creates an especially magical atmosphere. 

In Conclusion: 

From my point of view, November is truly an excellent time to get to know the region of Tuscany. The gentle morning mists are spectacular and if you�re not fazed by a bit of cold and occasional rain tan you can enjoy the beautiful scenery and quiet museums at very reduced costs as well as take your time to savour the best food of the year.

Accommodation in Tuscany- Bettole

 Dear Friends, 

As I know many of you are looking for advice on finding accommodation in Tuscany, I thought today I would draw your attention to two houses in which several friends of mine have stayed during holidays in the area and been more than delighted. Both are found in the town of Bettolle.

The grounds for this choice of position is the fact that I live very near this town and so when I have friends coming to visit I like them to stay here.  In any case, Bettollle makes an excellent �base camp� for various reasons:

-         The A1 (Main Italian motorway linking Rome and Milan) passes very near the town.

-         The Florence-Perugia motorway (The main connection between Tuscany and Umbria) also passes nearby.

-          Bettolle can be found between Cortona and Montepulciano, in other words between the Valdichianaand the Valdorcia in the South of Tuscany, in my opinion the prettiest part of the region  (in fact 90% of the most famous pictures of Tuscany have been of the province of Siena)

-          Finally, Bettolle is not as touristy a town as many others in Tuscany, so those looking for a more authentic experience will find the true essence of the region here.

Now I�ve mentioned some of the advantages to this place I�ll mention a couple of the properties I know.

The first is Villa Vignacce. It�s already been mentioned before on the blog but you�ll also find many positive comments on tripadvisor as well as on other websites about Tuscany. This farmhouse (consisting of apartments), which also has a Facebookpage, is an ideal base for making day trips to all the places of interest in Tuscany as well as offering its own lovely gardens and facilities. Some friends of mine stayed in �il Granaio� apartment and absolutely adored it.

The second accommodation that I want to suggest to all those that are simply looking for a �pied-a-terre� from which to explore the region, is "Casa Daria". Ths apartment in the centre of Bertolle is a true delight, completely renovated with much care and available at excellent rates. It is ideal for couples that are looking to get to know Tuscany and don�t require a pool or garden.

I know that many of you will now ask me about other places in Tuscany and I promise that I will look into somewhere in the North of the region so that you can have two different points of reference, one in the North and one in the South.

As always I hope this information might have been of help!

Cooking Courses in Tuscany

Dear Friends,

Today I�d like to talk about cooking courses, something that more and more people are requesting during their holidays in the beautiful Tuscany.

Cooking courses are often taught from villas and farmhouses themselves where their property owners, very passionate in the culinary field, offer their guests the chance to learn how to prepare typical regional meals.  Among those dishes most normally taught are different types of fresh pasta as well as desserts and game dishes, nothing difficult to make but all which form an important part of Tuscan cusine.

As well as these �home-run� courses that normally cost between 60 and 90 euros per person per day with food included, there are other more professional courses. The most interesting that I know is that run by �La Bottega del 30! A restaurant near San Gusm� that has held a Michelin star for many years. The owner, the lovely Francesca, some 60 years old, offers interesting courses based on cooking in Tuscany. In any case this option is considerably more expensive than the previous but an altogether different experience.

So for all of you cooking lovers and foodies that like to try authentic dishes wherever you travel, a cookery course might be an interesting option to add to your holiday in Tuscany.

Pictures of Tuscany- L�Isola de Elba

Dear friends, 

 Today I�d just like to publish a few pictures of L�Isola d�Elba (Elba island), one of the islands which make up the Tuscan archipelago. Of course, seeing photographs is nothing like experiencing it for yourselves, but maybe we can tempt you to pay a visit to one of the most beautiful islands in Italy...

Have you been to L�Isola d�Elba? What did you think?

How to get around in Florence

Dear Friends,

Today�s article will hopefully be of use for everyone taking Florence as the base for their holiday in Tuscany, or for those that simply want to spend a day or two in Florence while they explore the delights of the region from a countryside location.

The first thing you should take into consideration if you travel to Florence by car is the numerous restricted traffic zones in the historic centre. Driving through one of these zones will lead directly to a fine. So be careful!

As a result, if you plan to come to Florence by car or to hire a vehicle once you have arrived, I would suggest first of all that you look for a car park outside of these restricted traffic zones and leave your car there.

Florence does not have many car parks. However, the local government has produced a website on which all the main car parks in Florence and their locations are listed- definitely worth a look. If your hotel is in the centre of the city it might have its own car park. Only after your hotel has given your car�s number plate to the local police can you drive through the restricted traffic zones

Bicycle or scooter rental are also interesting options to get to know Florence and travel around the cities and other places in the wider area. There are a huge number of companies which offer rentals. I direct you to this website for example, where you can find both motorbikes and bicycles to rent. http://www.alinarirental.com/

Public transport such as the buses are another good alternative. The company that manages them is the ATAF and fortunately has a website in English. You will find information on timetables, routes and fares here.

You can also take taxis to get around Florence. Nevertheless, due to the fact that this sector is restricted, there are relatively few taxis in the city. To find them you almost always need to go to the designated ranks or call one by phone. This is of course a rather expensive way to travel.

The last option is to get around on foot. Considering that the city centre is not very big and especially that every corner of Florence deserves to be seen, this is probably the best choice.

As always we hope that this information might be of some use for your holidays in Florence and Tuscany.

Please leave any questions, suggestions or thoughts in the comments. 

Routes around Tuscan towns

Since many of you have been asking for articles on the towns in Tuscany we are going to start a section of the blog focusing on routes to various Tuscan towns that can be made in a single day.

Today we will talk about the following route:
Siena - San Gimignano - Monteriggioni

This route is undoubtedly one of the most appealing of those that can be made in one day.

Starting in Siena and parking in the "Stadio di Siena" or in "Piazza del Mercato" you will find yourselves practically in the centre of town and just a 10 minute walk from the beautiful Piazza del Campo, one of the most impressive historical monuments in the city.

Your visit ought to continue towards the Duomo. The Duomo, or Cathedral, is 10 minutes on foot from the Piazza and certainly a place which any visit to Siena should include. It is simply exquisite, and in my opinion, the most beautiful cathedral in Italy after San Pedro. Its beauty is not only saved for its exteriors but its interiors are even more magnificent. Siena was one of the wealthiest cities in the world during the Middle Ages and the people wanted the cathedral to be the most beautiful in the world. Inside the cathedral you will find stunning mosaics and works of art by the great artists from different eras.

Once you�ve finished in the cathedral I recommend a walk around the centre, strolling its especially narrow and charming streets, and also two very quick visits to the Accademia Chigiana (Siena�s Academy of Music) and to Palazzo Salimbeni (the historical headquarters of the oldest bank in the world, Banco Monte dei Paschi di Siena).

This visit to Siena should last around 3 hours, finishing around 12. 30 if you�ve started your day promptly! Now you can head to Monteriggioni. 

 Monteriggioni is an interesting medieval village situated about 15km from Siena and so can be reached very quickly on this route. I suggest you have lunch here as it has a couple of particularly nice restaurants: The first is Bar dell Orso where you can eat a simple but delicious meal of cold cuts, cheese and good wine on the splendid terrace, The other restaurant I recommend is called il Pozzo and is found in Monteriggioni itself in the central square. Il Pozzo is certainly more expensive but a more elegant dining experience where you can enjoy excellent homemade pasta dishes. This restaurant also has a lovely little terrace so you can eat al fresco but in the shade.  

Monteriggioni has a small church which I certainly consider to be worth a visit as its towers and medieval walls are still in perfect condition.

About 3 in the afternoon you should be thinking about leaving Monteriggioni to head to San Gimignano. This little town is well known for its medieval architecture, one of the gems of the region. It has conserved many of the towers which in the Middle Ages belonged to wealthy merchants and families that wanted to show off their power to the rest of the city.

San Gimignano has an interesting cathedral with marvellous frescoes by Ghirlandaio, but even a walk through the city is an experience. In the highest part of town there is a bar with panoramic views where you might want to relax with a glass of wine.

If you leave around 17.30 you will have plenty of time to go back to your accommodation to get ready for an excellent Tuscan dinner� 

I hope you�ve enjoyed this article and have taken away some useful information.

As always, comments are welcome and particularly appreciated if you have something interesting to add regarding the topic discussed.

How to plan an itinerary through Tuscany

Dear Friends,  

Today�s article will not be devoted to describing a new route, but rather will focus on giving some useful advice to consider when you decide to plan an itinerary through the region.

 

1- The first piece of advice that I want to give you is regarding the choice of accommodation along the way, or where to make your �base camp�. This decision is fundamental if you plan to really get to know Tuscany, for which it is ideal to position yourself near the A1 motorway or near a motorway such as the Florence-Siena or Siena-Betolle ones. It is important to choose accommodation near the routes of communication because this will allow you to get around quickly without wasting a lot of time on minor or national roads. 

2- On the same matter, I suggest that you stick to your chosen accommodation, since if you opt for a central place near the Florence-Siena-Bettolle motorway or A1 nowhere in Tuscany will be further than 2 hours away which will mean you can make daytrips to various places in the region.  

3- Furthermore, if you can make your accommodation near to a town reachable on foot this will be useful for the evening since restaurants and bars will just be a few minutes away and you won�t have to rely on the car or worry about being caught out for drinking on your return- checks in Italy are very frequent!

4- Another point to consider when planning your itinerary is not to include more than two or three towns. Seeing as Tuscany�s artistic heritage is vast and in each town, no matter how small, there is sure to be plenty to see.

5 � If you are planning a route by public transport, probably the most appropriate base would be Siena or Florence.  Although I don�t especially suggest this way of exploring Tuscany, buses leave daily from both of these cities to the majority of places of interest. As such you can visit a town a day. From Florence, as well as the buses there are many trains to the majority of cities in Tuscany. 

6- Meals. If on your itinerary you don�t want to spend a lot of money on restaurants I suggest that at mealtimes you enjoy a �Pizza al taglio� where you can buy large slices of pizza to go. In almost every town there are places like this and the pizza is usually very cheap. Another alternative that works well in Italy is to go to the first grocer�s shop you find and they will prepare you a good sandwich filled with local products.

7 � Airports. Making a good choice of airport is also important. I don�t advise you to fly to Florence with Meridian since they are never punctual and often cancel flights due to technical problems. Always look for flights to Pisa and Rome as an alternative. Considering that if you stay in the south of Tuscany Rome and Pisa are almost equidistant.

8 �Mobile Phones. If it is important for you to keep in mobile phone contact you should bear in mind that there are still areas in Tuscany with very little network coverage or even without any.  Take care to check when reserving your accommodation that there is network available in your chosen place.

9 � Speed checks and Fines. In the majority of towns as well as on the motorways there is a speed checking system, as well as restricted traffic zones, so be attentive to driving hours if you don�t want to be fined.

10 �Street safety. All cities in Tuscany are extremely peaceful. The only city where you should pay a bit more attention to your bag or wallet is Florence. In any case the greatest risk that you will find is pickpocketing.  

I would be delighted if you can add anything to this certainly not exhausted list by leaving your own advice in the comments section.

I hope this information will prove useful.