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Thursday, June 6, 2013

Letters from the readers : My Tuscan Trip

Hello Giorgio,
We are Ariele and Alex, a couple from Sao Paulo, Brazil. We both have Italian origin (from Barga, Northern Tuscany and Friuli) and our dream was to visit the country of our ancestors. We were also interested in learning Italian language and cooking.


I've found your blog last year and has been very resourceful in organizing our trip to Tuscany. I saved many of your suggestions regarding itineraries, restaurants, interesting places off the beaten tracks. After extensive researches online and among our friends and relatives we decided to spend our 10 days in Tuscany in this way: one week in Montepulciano where we attended the Italian course offered by the local Il Sasso language school and three days by the sea in Pietrasanta.


Montepulciano is lovely historic village with a great welcoming ambience and community. It has the perfect size for a stay, not too big and too touristy, easy to reach and good base for daily excursions.

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We preferred to rent a self catering apartment as we both love cooking and enjoy our evening together. We choose an apartment called Poltitian and we were very satisfied. We also followed your suggestion for the best Fiorentina steak (my husband is passionate about that) and went to Acquacheta Osteria and met the funny owner Julio.

The Sasso language school organizes weekly intensive courses from Monday to Friday with very friendly and professional teachers.  After days of hard study we spent the last three days at Lemons Guest house in Northern Tuscany by the sea. The place was delightful surrounded by a romantic garden, it was a perfect treat.


My only regret is that I could have spent more time in Montepulciano and one week is really too short, but we definitely come back with our friends. We were in Italy in May, do you think November or December are good months to visit Tuscany?
Many travelers claim Autumn to be the best time for food lovers.

Thanks again Giorgio for your helpful work!

Friday, May 31, 2013

San Gimignano: the medieval city of skyscrapers.

Without looking at the photo below, (possible too late now!) would you be able to name a perfectly preserved medieval citadel with 14 skyscrapers, and would you believe its existence?

No, well then I highly recommend you visit San Gimignano in Siena, in the beautiful hills of Elsa Valley to see such a miracle. There used to be 71 towers but over the years and various wars, in Italian history and beyond, have meant that only 14 have survived; a truly fantastic sight and a treasure that was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1990.

The 14 towers that stretch to the sky and caress the clouds are like a community themselves: Each is a different height and was built for a family member of the dominating family at the time, and depending on his rank and height a tower was built accordingly.

During my visit I discovered the San Gimignano delle belle Torri when we visited in the morning and what a sight it was. The imposing and awesome buildings are truly a sight to behold and appear like a carefully constructed masterpiece much like an orchestra or concert. The juxtaposition of solid structure and great beauty is truly inspiring. The mighty towers rise to the sky and stand out even in Siennan streets with many beautiful buildings.

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The Citadel is definitely worth a visit and although it is small (having a population 8,000 inhabitants- not including tourists) the Citadel is rich in art and with a multitude of museums, palaces and churches to visit, guests can indulge in the glorious history and culture of the region.

One day is not enough time to see the entire city, and we just had Sunday to visit. So we decided to first see the splendid Cathedral (Collegiate) built in the twelfth century and a place of worship. ( We being my friend Glenda and I).

The city has many great frescoed walls (painted art on buildings) by the great masters of the fourteenth and XV, above all, Lippo Memmi, Taddeo di Bartolo, Bartolo di Fredi and Domenico Ghirlandaio himself. Yes, you read correctly GHIRLANDAIO: the artist responsible for the afresco on Chapel of Santa Fina, with a cycle depicting the life of the Saint, as well as the splendid "Annunciation" next to the Baptistery.

On the third Saturday and Sunday in June in honour of Santa Fina, there is a festival in San Gimignano called �Ferie delle Messi�. The festival is organised by the �Knights of St.Fina� who dress in medieval custom and parade through the streets with banners, armor, helmets and shields reminiscent of the time. If you visit at this time you will also be treated to a horse tournament named �La Giostra dei Bastoni� , it is a truly fantastic event which is a marvel to the eyes and an amazing scene in the beauty of this town.

Afterwards we ventured to the Pinacoteca and the �Museo Civico� in the Palazzo del Popolo, which is where Dante stayed in 1300 while he was here as Ambassador in Tuscany for the �League Guelph�; responsible for paintings and works of art it houses. Both Glenda and I were captivated and enthralled by the frescoe �The Scene of Marriage� by Memmo di Filippucci depicting the seasons or cycles of spouse love; the painting is delicate and emotional an unusual piece for the time.
 
We then stopped by the magnificent Church of St. Augustine, a thirteenth century build with a Rococo interior. The church was also remodelled by the great Luigi Vanvitelli in the eighteenth century, after marvelling at this awesome structure we went for a spot of lunch.

The city is also renowned for its white wine, of course the Chianti region produces phenomenal wine but San Gimignano has the best white wine in the whole region and in Italy. There are a great number of wineries here and in some you can have a tasting of the wine with some snacks. One of the most unique wineries is �Divinorum� and we had a sneaky look inside and it is simply stunning. The name for wineries here is Enoteche, and they punctuate the beautiful street and squares of the city and taking a stroll through here is like a day-dream.

We stopped for lunch at the Trattoria �ll Castello� located in Palazzo Gonfantini, a twelfth century restaurant in the centre of the Citadel. It is a marvellous medieval tavern which is divided into separate rooms. If you fancy sitting outside (we didn�t it was a little fresh) then there is a beautiful courtyard with panoramic views. We choose to dine in the palor�Limonaia� which is one of the smaller more intimate rooms. The food was sensational, traditional homemade meals with a wide range of meat dishes on the menu: from free-range chicken, veal and beef, to pork, wild boar and other small game.

Glenda had ravioli with basil and tomato, and I had fettuccine with mushrooms as a starter. For second course we shared Bistecca alla fiorentina (yearling ribeye) grilled on oak charcoal, and usually ways half a kilo. The restaurant has on hand a local wine expert (Paula who was great and very attentive) who recommended a red wine  Rosso di San Gimignano, and in terms of price is was reasonable (not rising to the vine). For dessert we took a glass of a sweet wine called Vin Santo and we had a delicious almond cake (Cantucci) also drenched in the wine.

The feast tasted like it was heaven sent and was perfect for rejuvenating us , getting us ready for more sights to see....

We had an amazing time and doubt that people can resist the temptations and amazing sights of this city.

We are planning another trip, are you planning your first?


Sylvia

Friday, May 17, 2013

Visiting Chianti, Tuscany




Dear Friend



Today I want to talk about the medieval Montefioralle Borgo, a wonderfultown located in the heart of Chianti (between Siena and Florence).

 Montefioralle is probably one of the oldest towns in the area, as it is referenced in documents dating from1000 AD, which speak of the ruling families who were probably from Lombardo.

The village, like most walls and castles of the time, was built on the highest hill in the area and offers visitors breathtaking views of the beautiful hills of Chianti.

 This village is one of my favouritesin the area with its unique geographical locationand the pretty streets. A walk throughMontefioralle is like travelling back in time.

Its medieval streets adorned withflowers are so relaxing, especially delightful in the spring.

Near the village of Montefioralle, there are also many bars which produce excellent wine. In fact the Chianti area, where Montefioralle is located, is considered one of the best areas for wine productionin Tuscany.

During my last visit, my friends and I participated in a great wine tasting at a bar called Montefioralle, eponymous with the village you can see here on the blog.

I hope as always that this information will be useful.

Best wishes

Giorgio



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Exploring Cinque Terre in Tuscany

Dear Friends

Tuscany is an extremely popular holiday destination and after several emails asking me for advice about the area I am writing with some helpful hints. The area that borders Tuscany is called Liguria and is home to Cinque Terre a rugged Italian coastline which is a pleasure to visit.

The main decision to make is how to travel to and around Cinque Terre, whether you choose to use public transport or hire a car or a scooter you can be sure of beautiful scenery. If you decide to use public transport then the train service from Pisa to Spezia takes about an hour or so, you can check the schedules at the website below:
http://www.trenitalia.com/


 If you decide to hire a car then you can drive directly to La Spezia, where you can take the boat along the coast and discover the sights of the different villages that punctuate the scenery. Arriving by ferry is spectacular and you can check departure times at the link below
http://www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it/

 I would highly recommend hiring a car and enjoying the scenic drive through the coastal villages as it gives you a great way of experiencing Italian beauty. The Ferry runs along the coast so guests can visit all the villages. I also would like to recommend the town of Portofino which requires a little further travelling but is very rewarding. If you disembark at Monterosso al Mare, which is the last stop on the ferry trip, then you can take the local train to Santa Margherita Ligure which is about a 45 -50 minute journey on the train. Once you arrive there you can take a local bus to Portofino.


The bus route is just one block from the train station and takes a couple of hours. In addition to the ferryboat tour of Cinque Terre there is also the public train service, as mentioned above the main station is La Spezia, and the villages of Vernazza, Manarola and Riomaggiore all have connections to it, so you can also discover the beauty of the area from the comfort of the train.



For those who plan to spend several days in Tuscany a day spent at Cinque Terre is a must. I recommend visiting in the first few days of the trip and allocating the whole day to this wondrous place.

 As always I hope this information will be helpful.

 Kind regards
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Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Tuscany in Spring: the hidden gems

Dear Friends,

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Spring is nearing its peak and in my opinion, the month of May is the best time of the year to visit Tuscany. The days are long, the temperature is perfect and the colors of countryside are stunning.

As a result, I'd like to recommend the 3 places that I think offer the best view at this time of year.


La Foce (Val'Orcia)
La Foce is just a few kilometres from Montepulciano and it�s where the Origo Family (famous nobles of the region) has a luxurious villa. From La Foce, you can take in the best views of the Val'Orcia and also one of the most popular images of Tuscany: the photo of the cypresses that continues to be published.

Crete Senesi (Sur de Siena)
To the south of the province of Siena, I advise driving along the road that leads to Asciano after exiting the Siena-Bettolle motorway at Taverne d'Arbia. This stretch of road is one of the most spectacular in Tuscany. This particular part of the countryside is called Crete Lunari (due to its similarity to the surface of the moon). During this period of the year, it is simply breathtaking. The cultivated wheat fields are full of poppies and multi-coloured flowers.

Tenuta le Capezzine (Chiana Valley)
In the Avignonesi family's Tenuta le Capezzine, not only can you enjoy one of the finest wines of Tuscany, you can revel in the incredible views of the best part of the Chiana Valley. From Tenuta, there is a spectacular view of Cortona and its rolling hills. As with La Foce and Crete Senesi, you will enjoy a truly idyllic landscape that is dominated by a huge variety of flowers including poppies.

Piazzale Michelangelo (Florence)
If you make a trip to the capital of Tuscany, visiting the Piazzale Michelangelo is a must. Due to the fact that it isn't too far from the city, you can get there by taxi, or even on foot if you are feeling courageous. From Piazzale Michelangelo, you can enjoy a view of Florence that makes the front of many a postcard.


Kind regards,

Giorgio

Friday, April 12, 2013

Touring Tuscany on a Vespa

Is there anyone who hasn�t heard about the mythical Vespa? The little scooter from manufacturers Piaggio has been one of the symbols of Italy for over 50 years.

So friends, for those who enjoy motorbike trips, travelling around Tuscany on a Vespa can be an unforgettable experience.

In the majority of Tuscan towns, it is possible to rent one of these famous scooters. Furthermore, it is often possible to enjoy guided tours through the rolling hills of this beautiful part of the world.

As you tour the gentle, winding roads of Tuscany on a Vespa the wind will tickle your skin and the smells of nature will overwhelm you.

Have I persuaded you?








If you fancy going on a trip like this, check out the useful links that I have posted below:

Chianti Scooter Hire: http://www.tuscanyscooterrental.com/index.php/en/
Lucca Scooter Hire: http://www.scootertuscany.com/
Florence Scooter Hire: http://www.tuscanyvesparental.com/
Tuscany Scooter Hire: http://extras.yourtuscanvilla.com/vespa_tour_tuscany.htm

I hope that this article has been useful for you!


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Kind regards,

Giorgio 

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Recommendations for a summer in Tuscany

Dear Friends,

Many of you will be thinking about where you are going to go on holiday this summer.

For this reason, I wanted to talk about two letters I received from readers, who asked me to share their experiences with accommodation in Tuscany on the blog.

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Villa Vignacce
The first letter is from Caroline S, who stayed at Villa Vignacce in the summer of 2012, a house that we have frequently talked about on the blog before.

�Hello Giorgio! Thanks to your advice we had a perfect week in Tuscany, and above all Villa Vignacce was a revelation, a little piece of heaven that we will certainly return to as soon as possible.

We enjoyed a week in the Camino apartment. It is on the first floor of the building, and everything from the decoration to the structure of the apartment is in typical Tuscan style.

The hospitality of Annalicia, the owner of the property, was simply phenomenal. She offered us a really beautiful house in an authentic and historic estate, in which attention had been paid to every single detail: soft bedding and towels, a fully-equipped kitchen, original, old-fashioned furniture, completely refurbished bathrooms and a well-stocked library.

Furthermore, the gardens were very beautiful and perfectly maintained. The swimming pool gave incredible views of the mountains and being there was like enjoying a haven of peace. The colourful rose garden and the orchard are the icing on the cake and make the estate truly unique. The location is ideal for discovering Siena, Asis, Cortona, Montepulciano, Pienza or San Quirco d�Orcia, as well as the other beautiful places nearby. We will go back again, without doubt, and I would sincerely recommend it to other travellers!�

I would also like to publish the recommendation that Jos� Manuel P gave.

Podere Galilea
�In July 2012 I went on holiday to Tuscany with eight friends. We enjoyed the lovely towns, the delicious food, the tremendously hospitable people and the perfect climate. Anyway, I would like to highlight that the best memory that has stayed with us is the accommodation we chose. We had reserved an agrotourism place called Podere Galilea. It�s set amongst vineyards, and there are apartments and individual rooms. The owners are Florio and Marta, a charming couple who went out of their way to make sure our stay became an unforgettable memory. The breakfast is 100% homemade, and amongst other delicacies it includes tarts and cakes made by Marta, cold meats from the region, coffee and fresh fruit. Furthermore, two times a week they prepare dinner for the guests who would like it, and although you pay for it separately it really is worth it. Marta makes pizza and pasta (be sure to watch how she makes it!) and Florio takes care of the barbecue, while explaining funny local quirks to you. In the area around the house, there are lots of restaurants, and Marta and Florio will be happy to recommend the best ones to you!

The swimming pool in the vineyards is fantastic! Although the owners aren�t on the estate for the whole today, they give you the keys to get in and out when you like.

We used the place as a kind of headquarters from which we could travel around all of Tuscany and I just wanted to recommend it to everyone who follows this blog because the experience was so perfect in every aspect.�

To finish I hope that this information will be helpful for all of you who are planning a holiday in Tuscany!

Kind regards,

Giorgio